France has started imposing fees on fast fashion items, which could reach almost €20 per garment by 2030, as the government tries to curb sales of cheap clothing sold by e-commerce sites, reports infohub.kz.
The levy came into force on Tuesday, following a new law passed in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress. These e-commerce giants, known for selling large volumes of cheap apparel, have been criticized by French officials for driving a surge in fast fashion.
China's commerce ministry has described the French law as discriminatory and a trade barrier, saying it could violate World Trade Organization (WTO) principles. French minister Mathieu Lefevre said the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy were "well known".
In July, Lefevre's office said the levy would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some to say that the measure appeared to spare European companies.
Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two factors: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.
For 2026, the charges range from €0.50 on underwear to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans, and €12 for a jacket. The levy could reach up to €19.50 per item by 2030, though the cap remains at 50% of the product's pre-tax price.