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The once-celebrated Kapal-Arasan resort، a sanctuary nestled in the Zhetysu region of Kazakhstan، is now a shadow of its former glory. This natural haven، once sought after by people from across Kazakhstan and beyond for its healing properties، is facing a devastating decline.

A Gift from Nature

The origins of the mineral springs at Kapal-Arasan are shrouded in legend، with tales attributing their curative powers to mountain and water spirits. Ancient warriors are said to have bathed in stone-built baths to heal their wounds. A local belief even held that wishes made at the springs and bathed in by dawn would come true.

The springs were officially documented in the late 18th century. By 1840، Dr. Svetaev of the Kapal fortress noted the unique composition and long-known healing properties of the Arasan springs. In 1851، engineer A. Vlangali and doctor I. Zalugovsky studied the waters، recommending gradual consumption، starting with two glasses and increasing to twelve، along with therapeutic baths from the hot springs and morning/evening dips in the cold ones.

A Storied Past

This led to the construction of a small hotel، marking the beginning of the Arasan healing complex. In 1856، explorer P. P. Semenov-Tyan-Shansky stopped at the resort during his Central Asian expedition and noted the remarkable effect of the warm baths on his sciatica.

The resort's fame grew، even earning mentions in the "St. Petersburg Gazette." By 1872، a treatment facility and later a bathhouse were built، with the sanatorium officially opening in 1887. Legend has it that even Tsar Nicholas II intended to visit، for whom a special granite bath was prepared، though he never arrived. This bath was reportedly later used by other guests، and some say it now lies buried beneath the ruins of old buildings.

Some accounts suggest that after the collapse of the Soviet Union، this bath، along with an antique rosewood billiard table، was sold to cover employee salary debts. The billiard balls، it is said، were made of ivory.

A Period of Revival

A significant boost came in 1930 from an expedition by the Pyatigorsk Balneological Institute، which proposed increasing water flow and resuming patient admissions. Three decades later، the resort began operating year-round، with flights even operating from Almaty to Kapal.

Demand spurred development: new winter and summer buildings، cultural، and educational facilities emerged. Locals recall a residential building with a solarium on its roof offering stunning mountain views. Dinmukhamed Kunaev played a crucial role، and in 1977، at his request، Arasan was transformed into a center for health and recreation. Construction began on a large، five-story complex with 500 beds، including a club، canteen، hydrotherapy facilities، and an indoor therapeutic pool. In 1987، the Ministry of Road Construction commissioned the Ak-Su Arasan sanatorium complex with 150 beds.

Thus، on the northern slope of the Dzungarian Alatau، on the banks of the Biyen River at an altitude of 975 meters above sea level، a world-class health resort with weak radon mineral springs flourished across 35 hectares.

The Fall and a Glimmer of Hope

Kapal-Arasan operated until 1997، but the crisis of the 1990s dismantled decades of development. Widespread unemployment and disruptions in electricity and heating took their toll. The All-Union resort closed، its buildings falling victim to vandalism. Valuables were looted، buildings emptied، and the place of healing fell silent.

In the early 2000s، there was a revival. Local entrepreneur Yerkin Kaliyev restored the Ak-Su Arasan building، but the five-story complex، club، canteen، hydrotherapy facilities، and indoor pool remained abandoned.

The journey from Taldykorgan to Arasan is a mere 110 kilometers. Orda.kz reporters، who visited annually since 2007 with their children، recall enjoying baths، Charcot showers، and the profound sense of peace and recovery. They marveled at the mountain scenery، gathered chamomile، drank kumis، and consumed local produce – simple، genuine happiness.

However، this joy was short-lived. In 2012، the sanatorium closed again. It was later purchased by an Almaty businessman، but the facility never truly revived. Rumors circulated that the entrepreneur mortgaged the resort to a bank for loans.

In 2021، the Ak-Su district administration announced that the purification facilities and 33.4 hectares of land were purchased from Bank RBK by Almaty-based "Caspian Offshore Construction Realty" LLP and "Laguna Properties" LLP، with intentions to restore the resort's former glory.

Five years of waiting have yielded no results؛ the Kapal-Arasan territory has not come to life. Instead، the situation appears to have worsened.

The Springs Today

The scene at Kapal-Arasan today is one of utter devastation، suitable only for filming disaster movies. The once-sturdy brick buildings، which have stood for centuries، are now hollowed out. The former grand five-story complex is reduced to cold، monolithic walls، with everything else dismantled and stolen. Amidst these desolate ruins، livestock graze، and tree stumps dot the landscape.

Remarkably، the mineral waters still flow from the ground. In this desolate setting، locals gather by the healing springs، laundry sticks in hand. One woman was seen vigorously scrubbing clothes against stones by a hot spring، as if washing away not just dirt but the burdens of her life. Her young son sat nearby، offering clumsy assistance.

A man with a five-liter bottle approached، explaining the spring's benefits for joint pain. He directed the reporter to another spring، known for treating stomach ailments. After ten days of drinking this water، his gastritis had disappeared. He offered to show the source، where a rusty pipe with a finger-sized hole allowed water to trickle out. "The water used to flow directly from the pipe، but now it's barely a drip،" he lamented، inserting a thin tube to collect water.

He helped fill a two-liter bottle، the water collecting agonizingly slowly، as if the spring was making its final effort. Suddenly، the flow intensified، filling the bottle in seconds، as if to signal that the spring was still alive and capable of serving people if cared for.

A few steps away، another small، inconspicuous spring was pointed out، possessing unique properties. Washing one's eyes with this water in the morning، noon، and evening was said to cure pain، inflammation، and vision problems. The reporter cautiously collected some water، hoping to wash away the weariness and accumulated dust of years.

Improvised Solutions and Lingering Hope

Returning to the main spring، once the site of Charcot showers and long queues of health-seekers، the reporter observed locals who had ingeniously converted an old metal garage into shower cubicles. Radon water now flows through plastic hoses directly into these makeshift showers. While the constant flow prevents water conservation، it's a testament to the locals' efforts to preserve a piece of what made Arasan famous.

Despite the poverty and destruction، visitors are returning. A former resident recalled the resort's heyday، when nearly 500 locals were employed and visitors flocked from across the Soviet Union. "It's heartbreaking to see it all destroyed، with healing water flowing uselessly،" they said.

Another visitor، a man on a business trip، detoured to bathe. "It's a shame such water is going to waste. The area is ruined، buildings abandoned. If the state paid attention، we wouldn't need to travel abroad for treatment." A man of Chinese descent، who visits regularly for the healing waters، expressed his amazement at the positive results.

An elderly woman، arriving by taxi، reminisced about concerts، dance floors، and convoys of vacationers from her childhood.

Current State: Uncertainty and Concern

While the mineral springs and surrounding structures are accessible from various points، reaching the Ak-Su Arasan sanatorium is more challenging، though it remains nearby. Previous owners had fenced off the entire area، but the entrances are now blocked، and the roads are snowed in. The only sign of security is a faded notice on a pass.

According to the Ak-Su district administration، the resort area comprises several privately owned and leased plots totaling 35.96 hectares. The primary rights holders are "Caspian Offshore Construction Realty" and "Laguna Properties،" along with two individuals who own smaller plots for building use.

The sanatorium is not officially operational، and there are no lessees. The unique mineral springs of Kapal-Arasan remain unguarded. While the owner promises future restoration and new complex construction، with work planned to begin in 2027، the reality is that the resort is decaying before our eyes، turning into a grim ruin of a bygone era. The waters are exploited without control، buildings crumble، and a valuable heritage is at risk.

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